The Parisian luxury conglomerate LVMH, in collaboration with Red Bull, has purchased a football club intended to rival the star-studded Paris Saint-Germain (PSG). Florence’s prestigious menswear fair, Pitti Uomo, for the first time in its over 50-year history, has introduced a dedicated sportswear section to an event otherwise celebrated for its male elegance. In contrast, Munich’s ISPO, one of the largest sports trade fairs in the world, has invited streetwear cult medium Highsnobiety and the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair to collaborate. At the same time, fast-fashion giant Zara is expanding its ski collection significantly, now offering helmets and goggles. The trade publication Business of Fashion recently summed up the trend in an article titled: "How Marathons Became Fashion Shows."
For decades, the segments of sport and fashion have been growing ever closer. Yet, the combination holds even more potential. Where training happens, who scores the points, and where the game is heading—fashion expert Barbara Markert analyzes the dynamic connection between these two worlds.
For decades, the segments of sport and fashion have been growing ever closer. Yet, the combination holds even more potential. Where training happens, who scores the points, and where the game is heading—fashion expert Barbara Markert analyzes the dynamic connection between these two worlds.
These examples demonstrate that the segments of sport and fashion are currently collaborating more closely than ever before. But why now? Why the sudden surge? And is this truly a new phenomenon?
A glance at fashion history reveals that sport and fashion have always been closely intertwined. As early as 1913, Coco Chanel opened a sports department in her flagship store in Deauville. Designers like Jean Patou and Jeanne Lanvin also created their own sports collections, making use of jersey fabric that was previously reserved for rugby. Over the following decades, the two segments became increasingly intertwined: elastane, an elastic thread that began its career in Jane Fonda’s aerobics outfits, is now almost standard in jeans and shirts. The rise of polyester, a material rooted in sportswear, has cemented its (sometimes problematic) dominance in everyday clothing. Today, we all wear sneakers—not necessarily for sports, but because they are comfortable and stylish. The same goes for jog pants, a hybrid of trousers and sweatpants with a comfortable elastic waistband. Since the pandemic, it has even become entirely normal to wear yoga outfits or sweatpants on the streets. This look now even has its own category: athleisure wear.
A lot has already merged. Yet, the combination of sport and fashion seems to have gained fresh momentum—particularly in the luxury sector.
Karl Lagerfeld paved the way in 2014 with his prêt-à-porter collection, presented in the setting of a Chanel supermarket, where he introduced sneakers and joggers into the luxury world. Virgil Abloh, as Creative Director for Off-White and Louis Vuitton, elevated sports collaborations to cult status. Sneakers from his collaboration with Nike now fetch up to €100,000 per pair at auctions. Similarly, the collaboration between Alessandro Michele and Adidas for Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection is considered a milestone in fashion history, producing coveted collector’s items.
This trend continues today: Balenciaga collaborates with Manchester United, Barbara Bui designs a collection for PSG’s women’s team, Dior outfits the men of the same football club, Gucci looks after Juventus Turin, and Prada dressed the Chinese women’s football team for the FIFA World Cup. Meanwhile, LVMH has gone a step further by purchasing an entire football club. What is striking is that all these collaborations revolve around football—a mass sport that generates an estimated $25 billion in annual revenue.
In times of stagnating sales and declining profits, does the luxury industry truly need to align itself with a sport it once avoided? Football was long considered “too unfashionable” for this segment of the fashion industry, which preferred equestrianism, sailing, golf, and skiing. Now, however, luxury is turning to the masses. What caused this sudden change of heart? Experts see it as a carefully calculated strategy. Matt Powell, a consultant at the American retail firm Spurwink River, explains: “This sport receives a lot of attention from media and consumers. Brands are leveraging this interest to broaden their recognition.” The goal is clear: to expand the target audience, including the sought-after Gen Z demographic. Eric Biones, managing director of the Journal du Luxe, elaborates further: “These sports events are real, tangible experiences that draw fans away from their screens, breaking with the increasingly criticized digital lifestyle. Above all, they are cultural movements. Being part of such a movement enhances the perceived value of associated products and raises their status. Moreover, it allows brands to gain new ambassadors.”
This is evident with football stars like Cristiano Ronaldo, Lionel Messi, Neymar Jr., and Kylian Mbappé, who command millions of fans and followers. They are also considered style icons, decked out in luxury clothing from head to toe, making them perfect ambassadors for Gucci, Prada, and others.
LVMH’s sponsorship of the Paris 2024 Olympics was another particularly shrewd move: alongside millions in investments, LVMH provided outfits, medals, and their accompanying cases. The group’s fashion and jewelry houses, such as Dior, Berluti, and Chaumet, were omnipresent and in pole position to secure top athletes as exclusive ambassadors. During the games, Louis Vuitton signed four-time swimming Olympic champion Léon Marchand as their newest relatable ambassador.
The unexpected success of the most recent Olympic Games has set new benchmarks: where previous editions were considered outdated and uninteresting, the French succeeded in breathing new life and coolness into this mega-event. The entire sports industry will benefit from this in the coming years. The fact that the most spectacular competitions were not necessarily those traditionally dominating TV screens adds fresh momentum: sports like triathlon, fencing, swimming, or high jump could experience a revival as cult sports. The style of South Korean Olympian Kim Yeji during the shooting competition already caused a stir during the games and is expected to inspire several fashion collections in the coming seasons.
The ski industry has also undergone a complete style reinvention. Brands like Perfect Moment, Goldbergh, J. Lindeberg, and Nikkie have modernized traditional ski wear, which had remained largely unchanged for decades. Influencers like Chiara Ferragni and Vicky Rader consistently showcase these looks each winter, particularly during après-ski, where these stylish outfits truly shine. However, the entry of fast-fashion players like Zara into the ski market poses a serious challenge for these brands. Authentic ski wear companies like VAUDE, Kjus, Ziener, Salomon, Rossignol, and Peak Performance continue to build on their legacy, innovation, and customer trust. Yet, they must adapt, as competitors like Bogner, Sportalm, Moncler, and especially the returning ELHO Freestyle merge cutting-edge technology with the latest fabric innovations and high-fashion aesthetics.
This mix has all the makings of a true win-win scenario. Those who excel in the crucial disciplines of authenticity, performance, and style will undoubtedly enhance their chances of success. This applies not just to ski wear but to all sports. And as a consolation for everyone else: stylish après-ski mulled-wine drinkers, footballers indulging in luxury during their downtime, and kids who may not run but still wear cool sneakers are also fascinating target groups.
